Two days ago, fashion’s own Super Bowl — the Met Gala — happened, and just like Lorde says… what was that?
The theme: On point. A perfect moment to celebrate — and give long-overdue recognition to — the Black fashion community and its massive influence on global culture. It was the right time to spotlight often-overlooked pioneers like Zelda Wynn Valdes, Stephen Burrows, and of course, icons like Dapper Dan — who made a glorious appearance in a statement zoot suit. Ultra-oversized, unapologetic, and deeply symbolic: echoing the extravagant defiance of fabric rationing during WWII, and emblazoned with the Sankofa bird, a powerful Ghanaian symbol about learning from the past.
Grace Wales Bonner did what she does best — and Lewis Hamilton in her look was a dream. Teyana Taylor, Zoë Saldaña, and Rihanna delivered too.
Stand-up applause for them.
But here's the thing: while the message was powerful, I couldn’t ignore the lack of Black design representation. We’re in an era where creatives like Ib Kamara (Off-White), Maximilian Davis (Ferragamo), Olivier Rousteing (Balmain), and Pharrell (Louis Vuitton) are leading major houses. Yet somehow, it felt like there was only room for Pharrell — who, by the way, was designing the womenswear for the gala. I’d love to know what Nicolas Ghesquière has to say about that.
Where were Tolu Coker, Bianca Saunders, Feben, Thebe Magugu, or Martine Rose? Just putting it out there: I remember when Anna Wintour supported
Alexander McQueen and gave him the platform he needed. We need that kind of championing today.
Yes, the Met Gala is a fundraiser. But it’s also a massive window display for creativity. It’s not either/or. It should be both.
That’s what prompted me to write this: Is fashion just about money now? Has the industry decided it’s more important to fundraise and sell than to amplify creative and unique voices?
Let’s be real — only a few brands (hi, Prada) are posting green numbers. So Prada is exactly the proof that creativity leads. Prada and Miu Miu are constantly pushing silhouettes, textures, and ideas. They’re always a step ahead. So yes — creativity does move the world. We can’t keep playing the copycat game. Microtrends are exhausting.
Everyone’s doing the same thing — and no one’s saying anything new. (Talking only about major brands — independent designers are doing a
fine job here).
History shows us fashion responds to the economy — think of the Hemline Index by George Taylor in 1926, suggesting skirt lengths rise in boom times and fall in recessions. Fashion is reflective, reactive, and sometimes revolutionary. Need to mention here the PROTECT THE DOLLS t-shirt from Conner Ives.
But this Met Gala felt… branded. Doechii with an LV logo scar on her face Hailey Bieber’s crystal YSL ankle tattoo Georgina Rodríguez with a temporary Vetements-inked arm. Not the first rodeo for Vetements — the brand even had a tattoo tent at
Coachella recently. Yes, REALLY.
Maybe this is the new LOGOMANIA. Looks like we’re back to being walking billboards à la early 2000s. The branding is so loud because the ideas aren’t speaking loudly enough — and maybe this is how we’re supposed to recognize which brand each celebrity is wearing.
The question is: are logos now stunts to make us emotionally invest? Maybe that’s what brands need — to create fans, not just customers. Because let’s face it — that’s what you need if you want people to spend €2,500 on a bag that costed €500 a decade ago. Salaries haven’t increased fivefold.
Do brands even realize that 75% of luxury purchases come from middle- class consumers? Because with this pricing and branding strategy, they’re cutting off their own base. Not every brand can be Hermès. So yes, it’s time for fashion to change the narrative. Again.